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Tube Cell Assembly




                                        "This video shows the assembly of the tubes"



This is my best cell configuration. I am using 3 tubes inside the container. They are made of very low magnetic 304 stainless steel.

  • 1.5 inch cathode - 0.065 thickness

  • 1.75 inch neutral - 0.065 thickness

  • 2.0 inch positive - 0.065 thickness

  • 4 inch container with a hole drilled in the bottom for the cathode bolt. 0.083 thickness. A 3 inch container would work just as well.

  • Spacing between the tubes is 0.060 about 1/16th inch

The tubes are held together by spacers I made from a Poly cutting board. I cut the spacers 0.058 to 0.060 thickness.
Turning the tubes on end will make it easier to work with.

You are going to insert 3 spacers about 120 degrees apart. Don't measure it, just eyeball it.

You will need a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tubes closer together so as to make room for the 3rd spacer.
Put 2 spacer in and hold pressure on them so they don't drop down inside the tube. To get the 3rd spacer in, you will need to squeeze the tubes between those two spacers. This provides just enough room for the 3rd spacer. If it is not a tight fight, the tubes will slide out of place while you are driving down bumpy roads.
You can see that it makes a nice neat job if you align the insulators the same.

Use a small hammer to tap the insulators down even with the tube surface.

Notice the perforated flat plate that has been cut to fit and welded just inside the tube. Flat plate would work.

It is very critical for the tubes to be equally spaced apart, from top to bottom. Surfaces that are closer will produce more HHO than surfaces farther apart. Take your time and get this step right.
Now that the tubes are assembled to the cathode, it is time to insulate the cathode bolt from the container. This particular container is a joecell setup. The bolt goes out the bottom. You could easily use a solid bottom, and take the bolt out the top of the cell - through the lid. More on that later.
I made two insulators out of cutting board material. The inside one is tightly threaded onto the bolt to keep water from leaking between the threads. Notice the nut and washer are used to keep the tubes off of the bottom.

The lower insulator is grooved for an O-ring

Make sure the insulators lip goes inside the hole. It keeps the bolt from touching the container.
Keep a firm grip on the tube assembly as you tighten the nut. Don't let it slip. Take your time. Keep the tubes straight up and down.

We now have our cathode ready for the Negative voltage.

The cell is ready for a positive connector. Positive must be applied near the top of the outer tube, the 2 inch-er.

You could weld or bolt a threaded rod to that tube and take it out the side, or the lid.

I am doing something different.



I plan to experiment with the number of tubes. To make it convenient, I will make the container positive and short it to the closest tube. I cut some wedges out of a 2 inch tube.

I bent the wedges and forced them between the container wall and the tube wall. This helps stabilize the top of the tubes. The connection needs to be very tight.
The insulators have a lip that fits into the hole in the bottom of the container.


The lip needs to be a little taller than the O-ring.
This is the Lid.

Drilled 4 holes along the outer edge. Had to countersink them to get a flat surface for the screw heads.

Notice the rust on the non-stainless hose adapter.

Bottom of the Lid.

Had to cut a 4 inch groove for an
O-ring. My container is 4 inches in diameter,

Installing the
O-Ring. You can get them at a good hardware store.

    Copyright 2003   All rights reserved.   Revised: 04/03/22.                                             Web Author, David Biggs
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